Sunday, November 3, 2019

Madrid, Spain - pre-Flight Walk

Madrid, Spain - pre-Flight Walk (11/3)

Well, we're camped out at a hotel near the Madrid airport for a night's sleep before we fly home tomorrow.

After a leisurely breakfast this morning we toted our stuff to the bus for the ride to Madrid and a taxi to our hotel. Now that we've become more aware of afternoon restaurant kitchen closures, we had another great lunch and then set out to walk a loop through the area of our hotel.

I used the 'look for green' areas on Google maps to link together a walk that traversed several neighborhoods, a very large and barren area, a number of parks, and had a couple of freeway crossings. It was very windy while we walked and we remarked a number of times that we were glad not to be in the mountains dealing with the wind.

We had a big surprise out in the barren area when we encountered a long set of concrete walls that had been painted with very interesting graffiti-style murals. What a surprise! Then we walked through what looked like a tree farm and came upon a very cool cycling skills area. Several young riders were taking advantage of the area and we enjoyed watching them for a while.

Then a freeway crossing, more park, an upscale neighborhood, another freeway crossing and we were back.

Tomorrow morning we rustle up some breakfast, get on the plane for our first flight, and head for Seattle.

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Saturday, November 2, 2019

Segovia, Architecture and Artifacts

Segovia, Architecture and Artifacts (11/2)

Our walking today had both a practical side and and aesthetic side.

Tomorrow we head back to Madrid (and eventually back to the USA) and will travel to Madrid by bus. So, today we scouted out the route that we'll need to take to walk to the bus station tomorrow since we get easily confused by the winding, narrow streets and don't want to tote our luggage further than necessary.

That was the practical part.

Then we headed out to do a walk paying special attention to the architecture of the old city of Segovia. And we saw a lot since the city goes back a couple thousand years to the Romans, at least.

Here's some nuggets:

The wall, of course. Now it's integrated into the city, sometimes with buildings connecting sections together.

Many buildings along Calle Cervantes and Calle Juan Bravo with Moorish-like decorated facades.

The interior of the Catedral de Segovia which is just huge and unbelievably lavish.

The Iglesia Corpus Christi which was a synagogue before the Jews were expelled in 1492 and subsequently converted to a church.

It was great to see the mixture of architectural periods, try to guess the design fads that were governing as each building was designed, to marvel at the skill of the workers that made it all happen, and to see the influence of so many cultures on the buildings here.

We had another great lunch in the middle of all this, right in the neighborhood where we're staying.

Tomorrow, a bus to Madrid, an overnight stay, then our flight back to the USA.

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Friday, November 1, 2019

Aqueduct of Segovia

Segovia, Spain - Aqueduct of Segovia (11/1)

Today we walked from our apartment to the Aqueduct of Segovia. What a structure! Built in about the first century AD (estimated) it brought water to the city of Segovia until mid nineteenth century; a life span of use of 1800 years! On our way there we passed through a section of the city that we'd not visited before, Calle Cervantes and Don Juan, the center of visitor shopping, which we passed through as quickly as possible.

There's a large plaza for viewing the aqueduct and wide streets leading away from it so one gets a much better sense of its scale and of the engineering and construction skills that went into building it.

After a great lunch we took a round-about walking route back to our apartment, avoiding a sudden downpour by sheltering under a bridge. Just in the few days that we've been here we've noticed a lot more color in the trees' leaves; fall is coming.

Our efforts to shop for some breakfast food were stymied, however, as this is a holiday today and all of the grocery stores were closed. I guess if you live in Spain then you learn how to plan around holidays.

Tomorrow is our last day in Segovia, then back to Madrid, and finally home to Seattle.

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Thursday, October 31, 2019

Segovia, A River Walk

Segovia, Spain - A River Walk (10/31)

This was our first full day in Segovia and we both became aware of the accumulated fatigue that we have from so many days of activity. We slept in, had leisurely breakfast, washed some clothes, and then set out on a circuit walk through some nearby parks/open spaces. Our first destination was the Rio Clamores. The Rio Clamores actually flows underneath a good portion of the city of Segovia and emerges to the surface at the foot of the walls of el Alcazar (the castle). The apartment where we're staying is in the Jewish Quarter and is just across the street from the Catedral de Segovia, all of which is inside the walled old city and situated on the top of a steep hill. This all means that we had to descend the narrow, cobbled streets where cars zip by at more than the 20 KPH posted speed to reach the pathway that follows the Rio Clamores channel. And what a beautiful place. Steep cave-filled limestone cliffs on both sides. On one side the walls of the old city, on the other modern Segovia. The whole place was damp and filled with plants. After a couple of kilometers we turned to follow the Rio Eresma back toward el Alcazar and the walled city. Yet another peaceful walking place. This led us to a stairway that we climbed up to el Alcazar and another set of winding, cobbled streets back to our apartment neighborhood and the Plaza Mayor. Still not accustomed to the restaurant serving schedules, we barely made it back in time to have a delightful lunch that ended with a beautiful, sweet postre (dessert). A good day for a couple of tired, trekking travelers.

Wednesday, October 30, 2019

La Granja, Rio Erasmo

La Granja, Rio Erasmo (10/30)

Today was our last walking day in Spain. A few more days of touristing and then back to the USA.

We stayed last night in a hotel in La Granja virtually next door to the Palacia Real built by Philip V, the first Bourbon Spanish king, in the early 1700s. It's modeled on the palace at Versailles and we walked a bit in the open gardens today.

Our core walk, however, was from our hotel past a polo field and stables through an oak woodland that ultimately led us to the Rio Erasmo. Along the banks of the Rio Erasmo is a path that was built by one of the later Bourbon kings to improve access to the river for fishing. It's a lovely stone paved walkway that hugs the shore of the river.

I made the mistake of forgetting my trekking poles when we stopped to take off clothing on our way out and, when I realized what I'd done and walked back, they were gone. The up side is that I won't have to pack them in my bag for the trip home and I won't have to go to REI to have them replaced due to the broken grip for which I'd cobbled a fix.

We finished our day by visiting the Palacia Real gardens and gaping at the excess of the building and grounds. Then, with perfect timing we returned to our hotel to fetch our bags and wait for our taxi to Segovia as it began to gently rain! From here on it's all city stuff so rain matters very little.

A few days in Segovia, then we begin our journey home to the USA.



Tuesday, October 29, 2019

Los Cotos to La Granja

Spain, Los Cotos to La Granja (10/29)

Today's walk started with a train ride.

After breakfast we brought our big packs to the hotel lobby for transport to our next hotel and walked across the street to take the train to Los Cotos to begin our day's walk. The weather was sunny and warm in Cercedilla but at Los Cotos there were clouds covering the mountain tops and it was a good deal cooler. Just before our train loaded another train pulled in and a half dozen or so men got off with their mountain bikes and lined up to board for the ride to Los Cotos.

We have been so lucky with the weather I was initially disappointed to see the threatening clouds; it seemed wrong.

Our walk started immediately uphill. Just to leave the train station we had to walk uphill. Then it was steady uphill through the forest and out into the alpine zone. Above the tree line we were treated to great expanses of meadow and granite mountains shrouded in clouds. Our first destination was Laguna Grande, a tarn located in what looked to be a glacial cirque. The path across the meadow as a well-maintained board walk, designed to keep casual feet from trampling the meadows.

After a short break at Laguna Grande, we headed back downhill to hike to Laguna de los Pajaros. On our way down, we saw off the trail, in a meadow grazing, a cabra montaƱosa (mountain goat). Of course it was picture time. Just a few minutes later as we were ascending the moraine to Laguna de lost Pajaros, we saw a cabro montaƱoso (male mountain goat). And, later still, a pair of females. Clearly they are not hunted in the park and have acclimated to people.

A few minutes later a cloud swept over the ridge bringing with it some light rain, our first rain on this trip. We put on our rain coats, covered our packs, and continued walking. Within a few minutes the rain stopped. Now we were treated to views of lake after lake as we continued to Laguna de los Pajaros.

This was amazing country, much like the high Sierras, but with its own unique look and vegetation. And the clouds and wind gave it a sense of wildness that I found exhilarating. This impression was even stronger as we descended to the pass from which we would drop down into La Granja. I thought this must be what it's like in the Scottish highlands: misty clouds, wind, knee high vegetation, and views to forever.

From the pass we turned north for the long (8.5km) descent. On the way down we were met by our local tour representative who had moved our luggage to La Granja and was now out on a walk of his own. Finally into town I was very happy to rest my tired feet and legs so I'd be ready for our last Spanish hike tomorrow.

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Monday, October 28, 2019

Senda Herreros

Spain, Senda Herreros (10/28)

Well, this was a day that challenged our navigational skills. The walk we wanted to do was a traverse of Siete Picos (Seven Peaks), but we lost the route on our way and ended up backtracking.

The full story: The initial approach was along a stream and through open pine forest. At about 7km into the walk the trail (Senda Herreros) petered out and it became necessary to follow it using occasional blazes and cairns around a cirque and up to the ridge where the traverse would begin. At first this was through heavy brush, then later through open forest that skirted the base of rocky cliffs of Siete Picos.

Needless to say, we lost the trail fairly early on and spent a good deal of time trying to locate it using the GPS track that our local representative had so kindly provided. Eventually we worked our way up to the ridge crest at about 9km into the walk. We sat in the shade, ate some lunch, and discussed out options.

We were near some blazes and cairns that marked another route up the ridge and by consulting the GPS track it was clear that we could re-join our original route, which is what we did.

At that point we decided that we should return to our starting point rather than completing the traverse. And that is what we did, following the blazes and cairns in reverse back to our starting point. It was easier on the return as we were in open forest most of the time and the visual markers were much more obvious. A couple times we had to cast about to find markers and ensure that we were on route.

When we finally rejoined the main trail it was clear why we got off track initially: it was totally in-obvious where the trail branched off, just a bunch of roots and brush. I made like a good citizen and built a large cairn right at that junction.

Our hotel hosts had kindly driven us to the start in the morning and a man who was finishing his walk provided us with a ride back to town when we finished. Spanish hospitality!

Even though this occupied a lot of our attention there were many things about the walk that we really liked.

The forest and landscape were very reminiscent of the Sierra Nevada, which we love. Recent rains have resulted in a crop of mushrooms sprouting, some very colorful (and probably poisonous). The trail is named after Enrique Herreros who first pioneered the route and was a poet, humorist, artist, film maker, and mountaineer. Near the beginning (and end) of our walk we traveled on a section of cobbled road that was built by the Romans and passed by 2 arched bridges that they built. We noticed quite a contrast between the remains of a modern asphalt road and the 2000 year old Roman road.

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