Los Cotos to La Granja

Spain, Los Cotos to La Granja (10/29)

Today's walk started with a train ride.

After breakfast we brought our big packs to the hotel lobby for transport to our next hotel and walked across the street to take the train to Los Cotos to begin our day's walk. The weather was sunny and warm in Cercedilla but at Los Cotos there were clouds covering the mountain tops and it was a good deal cooler. Just before our train loaded another train pulled in and a half dozen or so men got off with their mountain bikes and lined up to board for the ride to Los Cotos.

We have been so lucky with the weather I was initially disappointed to see the threatening clouds; it seemed wrong.

Our walk started immediately uphill. Just to leave the train station we had to walk uphill. Then it was steady uphill through the forest and out into the alpine zone. Above the tree line we were treated to great expanses of meadow and granite mountains shrouded in clouds. Our first destination was Laguna Grande, a tarn located in what looked to be a glacial cirque. The path across the meadow as a well-maintained board walk, designed to keep casual feet from trampling the meadows.

After a short break at Laguna Grande, we headed back downhill to hike to Laguna de los Pajaros. On our way down, we saw off the trail, in a meadow grazing, a cabra montañosa (mountain goat). Of course it was picture time. Just a few minutes later as we were ascending the moraine to Laguna de lost Pajaros, we saw a cabro montañoso (male mountain goat). And, later still, a pair of females. Clearly they are not hunted in the park and have acclimated to people.

A few minutes later a cloud swept over the ridge bringing with it some light rain, our first rain on this trip. We put on our rain coats, covered our packs, and continued walking. Within a few minutes the rain stopped. Now we were treated to views of lake after lake as we continued to Laguna de los Pajaros.

This was amazing country, much like the high Sierras, but with its own unique look and vegetation. And the clouds and wind gave it a sense of wildness that I found exhilarating. This impression was even stronger as we descended to the pass from which we would drop down into La Granja. I thought this must be what it's like in the Scottish highlands: misty clouds, wind, knee high vegetation, and views to forever.

From the pass we turned north for the long (8.5km) descent. On the way down we were met by our local tour representative who had moved our luggage to La Granja and was now out on a walk of his own. Finally into town I was very happy to rest my tired feet and legs so I'd be ready for our last Spanish hike tomorrow.

Highlight video