Imperial Fort (Srd) Trail (10/20)
More water travel today as I took my last ferry ride in the Dalmatians from Korcula to Dubrovnik. It was a 2-hour, very relaxing ride.
My room wasn't yet available when I arrived, so I left my luggage with the front desk and set out to walk from my hotel to the Imperial Fort Trail and up the hill to Srd.
The desk clerk told me that there was a walking path along the water for a good bit of the ways and it was very pleasant: cool from shade and a breeze, nice views of the water and ship traffic, a shell house (!), and restaurants and hotels. Once away from the water, though, it was a mostly shadeless and uphill walk to the start of the trail.
The trail beginning was a bit tricky to find. Google tried, but the approach by foot involved some tiny, ancient streets and crossing a very busy roadway to get to the starting point. My clue that I was close was seeing a lot of cars parked on the shoulder of this busy road.
The beginning of the trail was pleasantly shaded as it switch-backed up the hillside. The trail surface, however, was standard Croatian trail with plenty of stones. About 1/3 of the way up, the trail came out of the trees and the remainder of the ascent was directly exposed to the sun and was very hot. At the corner of each switch-back there was a bronze plaque commemorating something about Jesus. After a time I got the feeling that each one was a station of the cross, since this is a very Catholic country. But I don't know the stations so it could be my imagination.
At the top I walked around a bit to get a sense of the view, but all these other days have spoiled me. There was considerable haze in the air so the island view was obscured. However, Srd is directly above the old city so I could see right down into it. Very cool.
I didn't want to walk back so I took the cable car down and then a cab back to my hotel.
There was still a bit of day left so I got checked in, changed into my swim togs, and went down to the beach just a couple hundred meters behind the hotel and had a very nice swim. There must be a river that comes in nearby because the water did not seem as salty, although I floated very well, and it was filled with distinctly hot and cold areas.
Tomorrow I get to poke around Dubrovnik a bit and, if lucky, get another Adriatic swim before I go to Madrid the next day.
Highlight video
Thursday, October 24, 2019
Korcula Island - Mjlet National Park
Korcula Island - Mjlet National Park (10/19)
Once again my day was framed by ferries.
This morning I took the ferry from Korcula to Mjlet Island so that I could walk in Mjlet National Park.
My impression of national parks is totally dominated by my experience with those in the US. The US this is not! There are villages scattered throughout the island and a hotel is within a short walking distance of the ferry landing; I saw several people roll their suitcases off the ferry and into the hotel.
But the park does have trails. They are not USA-type trails, but what I've come to experience in Croatia: stony and signed only with the red and white dots or strips that I've seen before.
Mjlet Island doesn't have many high places but, if the trails are any indication, it has plenty of rolling hills. The Mediterranean scrub brush covers much of the island so the long views are even more precious as they're spaced out more. The upper ridges have groves of Aleppo Pines, some of which are quite big.
I saw no other walkers except on the shores of a small lake when I was nearing the end of my walk. There were a couple of guys doing some kind of maintenance near the point that I started my return. They had fallen a number of trees across the trail and I was forced out into the brush to bypass them.
Ouch!
There's some kind of thorny vine that I encountered that really sticks and doesn't tear loose easily. I was forced to awkwardly stand on them and back out of their prickly embrace. Well, that's Mediterranean underbrush for you.
The morning dew was heavy on everything when I started out. This made the stones in the path very slippery. It took me a while to get the hang of them and I was extra careful with my foot placement after that. Can't be too careful when you're all alone.
I had lunch on a lovely set of limestone slabs that angled down to the mirror-like water of a small bay. Off to my left was a set of 3 small islands. Peaceful, quiet, and puffy white clouds billowed up on the horizon. I thought back to my week of swimming in the Adriatic and considered stripping down for a dip. This thought was driven from my mind as a breeze sprang up and I realized that I'd have to dry out using the breeze only while sitting in the shade. So, I just savored the view.
As he sun was starting to kiss the western horizon I walked back into Pomena ahead of the time I needed to catch the ferry back to Korcula. I found a spot on a shady pier, watched the fish, and nibbled some food while a band set up at the other end of the waterfront promenade. Without direct sun the temperature dropped so I wandered back to the other end of the promenade to catch a last few rays before my boat arrived.
Then it was back on the ferry for the 30 minute ride to Korcula. Tomorrow I leave the islands and my walking trip when I travel to Dubrovnik for my last few days here before meeting up with Janet in Madrid.
Highlight video
Once again my day was framed by ferries.
This morning I took the ferry from Korcula to Mjlet Island so that I could walk in Mjlet National Park.
My impression of national parks is totally dominated by my experience with those in the US. The US this is not! There are villages scattered throughout the island and a hotel is within a short walking distance of the ferry landing; I saw several people roll their suitcases off the ferry and into the hotel.
But the park does have trails. They are not USA-type trails, but what I've come to experience in Croatia: stony and signed only with the red and white dots or strips that I've seen before.
Mjlet Island doesn't have many high places but, if the trails are any indication, it has plenty of rolling hills. The Mediterranean scrub brush covers much of the island so the long views are even more precious as they're spaced out more. The upper ridges have groves of Aleppo Pines, some of which are quite big.
I saw no other walkers except on the shores of a small lake when I was nearing the end of my walk. There were a couple of guys doing some kind of maintenance near the point that I started my return. They had fallen a number of trees across the trail and I was forced out into the brush to bypass them.
Ouch!
There's some kind of thorny vine that I encountered that really sticks and doesn't tear loose easily. I was forced to awkwardly stand on them and back out of their prickly embrace. Well, that's Mediterranean underbrush for you.
The morning dew was heavy on everything when I started out. This made the stones in the path very slippery. It took me a while to get the hang of them and I was extra careful with my foot placement after that. Can't be too careful when you're all alone.
I had lunch on a lovely set of limestone slabs that angled down to the mirror-like water of a small bay. Off to my left was a set of 3 small islands. Peaceful, quiet, and puffy white clouds billowed up on the horizon. I thought back to my week of swimming in the Adriatic and considered stripping down for a dip. This thought was driven from my mind as a breeze sprang up and I realized that I'd have to dry out using the breeze only while sitting in the shade. So, I just savored the view.
As he sun was starting to kiss the western horizon I walked back into Pomena ahead of the time I needed to catch the ferry back to Korcula. I found a spot on a shady pier, watched the fish, and nibbled some food while a band set up at the other end of the waterfront promenade. Without direct sun the temperature dropped so I wandered back to the other end of the promenade to catch a last few rays before my boat arrived.
Then it was back on the ferry for the 30 minute ride to Korcula. Tomorrow I leave the islands and my walking trip when I travel to Dubrovnik for my last few days here before meeting up with Janet in Madrid.
Highlight video
Korcula Island - Peljesac
Korcula - Peljesac (10/18)
Today was a move along day.
Another island transfer, this time to Korcula. I had plenty of time for breakfast and to get packed, although I forgot my delicious Croatian prsut (prosciutto) in the room fridge. I was so looking forward to having some with my lunch today.
Ah, the transfer to Korcula was only the first. Upon arrival I was picked up by a taxi and taken to my hotel where I dropped off my big pack, finished preparing my day-pack, and was transported to my second ferry. This one took me to Orebic which is actually on the Croatian mainland.
From the ferry I almost immediately headed uphill for a hike up Peljesac whose summit is at about 980m elevation. My start time was probably around 9AM.
This was far and away the most challenging hike yet on this trip. It was steep both up and down in many spots and with sections of rough rock and slippery gravel. Starting out it was hot and muggy and I was soon drenched in sweat. Almost immediately I felt a sense of being alone as I trudged up and up and up...
At one point I came to a memorial plaque for someone who had been killed here (I assume) and must have been distracted because I lost the trail at that point. It was not a good place to lose the trail as the terrain was quite steep for a LONG way down and it was treacherous scree. I wandered about a bit looking for the trail markers but didn't see them. As I moved carefully toward easier terrain I spotted the foot worn track below me and gradually worked my way over to it.
That was a relief as I kept hearing a clock ticking away in my head with the 6PM time to catch my ferry back to Korcula occupying too much of my attention.
After exiting the steep section I traversed a beautiful high meadow to a small chapel built way up on the mountain. From here it was about .75km of open alpine terrain, mostly sharp limestone rock and heather. Right at the summit was a small cross and 2 horses, one of whom came right over to me.
Now you have to realize I'm not much of a horse person. I don't trust them and I'm afraid of them. This one was so aggressive it must be getting fed by people walking up there. The other horse pretty much ignored me. I'd walked around horse #1 to get to the summit and as I was taking pictures it turned and walked right up to me. I petted its soft horse nose to show it I had no food, turned back downhill, and walked back to the chapel where I found a nice bench and ate some food.
Then it was downhill for 8km or so and 980m of elevation loss.
By the time I was halfway down I realized that I was getting very tired from both the walking and from needing to pay attention to my footing all the time. I was very glad when the trail came out onto the road and I could collapse my trekking poles and just walk along. Oh, joy! I got back to Orebic with time to visit a bakery and Studenac (supermarket) to get some snacks for tomorrow. And, I still had time to sit on a bench at the ferry terminal and have 500mL of chocolate milk and a banana before riding back to Korcula.
I really felt like I was out in the mountains today; it took my breath away at times. And the views of the Adriatic and the Southern Dalmatian Islands was pretty terrific too.
Tomorrow, Mljet Island and a national park.
Highlight video
Today was a move along day.
Another island transfer, this time to Korcula. I had plenty of time for breakfast and to get packed, although I forgot my delicious Croatian prsut (prosciutto) in the room fridge. I was so looking forward to having some with my lunch today.
Ah, the transfer to Korcula was only the first. Upon arrival I was picked up by a taxi and taken to my hotel where I dropped off my big pack, finished preparing my day-pack, and was transported to my second ferry. This one took me to Orebic which is actually on the Croatian mainland.
From the ferry I almost immediately headed uphill for a hike up Peljesac whose summit is at about 980m elevation. My start time was probably around 9AM.
This was far and away the most challenging hike yet on this trip. It was steep both up and down in many spots and with sections of rough rock and slippery gravel. Starting out it was hot and muggy and I was soon drenched in sweat. Almost immediately I felt a sense of being alone as I trudged up and up and up...
At one point I came to a memorial plaque for someone who had been killed here (I assume) and must have been distracted because I lost the trail at that point. It was not a good place to lose the trail as the terrain was quite steep for a LONG way down and it was treacherous scree. I wandered about a bit looking for the trail markers but didn't see them. As I moved carefully toward easier terrain I spotted the foot worn track below me and gradually worked my way over to it.
That was a relief as I kept hearing a clock ticking away in my head with the 6PM time to catch my ferry back to Korcula occupying too much of my attention.
After exiting the steep section I traversed a beautiful high meadow to a small chapel built way up on the mountain. From here it was about .75km of open alpine terrain, mostly sharp limestone rock and heather. Right at the summit was a small cross and 2 horses, one of whom came right over to me.
Now you have to realize I'm not much of a horse person. I don't trust them and I'm afraid of them. This one was so aggressive it must be getting fed by people walking up there. The other horse pretty much ignored me. I'd walked around horse #1 to get to the summit and as I was taking pictures it turned and walked right up to me. I petted its soft horse nose to show it I had no food, turned back downhill, and walked back to the chapel where I found a nice bench and ate some food.
Then it was downhill for 8km or so and 980m of elevation loss.
By the time I was halfway down I realized that I was getting very tired from both the walking and from needing to pay attention to my footing all the time. I was very glad when the trail came out onto the road and I could collapse my trekking poles and just walk along. Oh, joy! I got back to Orebic with time to visit a bakery and Studenac (supermarket) to get some snacks for tomorrow. And, I still had time to sit on a bench at the ferry terminal and have 500mL of chocolate milk and a banana before riding back to Korcula.
I really felt like I was out in the mountains today; it took my breath away at times. And the views of the Adriatic and the Southern Dalmatian Islands was pretty terrific too.
Tomorrow, Mljet Island and a national park.
Highlight video
Hvar Island, Brusja to Dubovica
Hvar Island, Brusja to Dubovica (10/17)
Today's walk was book-ended by taxi rides: a ride to get me to starting point and another ride to transport me back to Hvar when I was finished. This was a point-to-point walk and the ending point was about 10km or so from Hvar Town.
Another muggy day, with a lot of dew on everything at my starting point, the village of Brusja. There was still residual fog in the air as well, so somewhat hazy for the first 30 minutes or so.
My taxi driver told me on the way up that the route was marked with (now familiar) red and white painted route indicators, sometimes a bulls-eye like circle, other times stripes, and sometimes L-shaped to indicate a turn.
After only a couple hundred meters of walking I was off pavement and onto graveled roads. These were sometimes rough, but generally very walk-able. There's a lot more agriculture on Hvar than on Brac so I spent a lot of time walking between small groves of olive trees and the occasional vineyard.
Today I came to realize 2 very interesting things. First, olive trees must be pretty tough. They grow here, where there's very little rainfall, most of which comes in just a few months in the winter and the soil is very thin. I've seen olive trees growing out of a pile rocks!
Second, there's the rocks. Everywhere on all the island the rocks are piled up or fashioned into stone walls. This started 900 years or so ago when people first settled the islands which were covered in stones. In order to clear some space to grow grass for sheep or to plant olive trees or grapes, the people cleared away the stones. I have a hard time wrapping my head around that: all manual labor to clear the stones. The big ones were broken up into small ones, again all by hand.
My cab driver on Brac said that a man might work for a year to clear the stones from 45 square meters of land! Think about that, an area 7 meters by 7 meters, taking a year to clear. Over time, more and more stones were cleared so that now the piles and walls are everywhere.
Tough people and tough trees.
OK, back to my walk.
My route was generally downhill to the sea, with the occasional up hill to keep my attention. I passed by a couple of rural villages, now mostly abandoned (Malo Grablje and Zarace) and both historical/cultural sites for Croatia.
I did have to walk on the shoulder of a busy road for 1.5km or so, before my final descent into Dubovica. Since I arrived ahead of my expected time, I found a spot in the shade, read for a time, then took a nap before walking back up the hill to my pick-up location.
Today I had mountains, farms, and sea shore; a good day. Tomorrow I'm off to Korcula Island for my last couple days' of walking.
Highlight video
Today's walk was book-ended by taxi rides: a ride to get me to starting point and another ride to transport me back to Hvar when I was finished. This was a point-to-point walk and the ending point was about 10km or so from Hvar Town.
Another muggy day, with a lot of dew on everything at my starting point, the village of Brusja. There was still residual fog in the air as well, so somewhat hazy for the first 30 minutes or so.
My taxi driver told me on the way up that the route was marked with (now familiar) red and white painted route indicators, sometimes a bulls-eye like circle, other times stripes, and sometimes L-shaped to indicate a turn.
After only a couple hundred meters of walking I was off pavement and onto graveled roads. These were sometimes rough, but generally very walk-able. There's a lot more agriculture on Hvar than on Brac so I spent a lot of time walking between small groves of olive trees and the occasional vineyard.
Today I came to realize 2 very interesting things. First, olive trees must be pretty tough. They grow here, where there's very little rainfall, most of which comes in just a few months in the winter and the soil is very thin. I've seen olive trees growing out of a pile rocks!
Second, there's the rocks. Everywhere on all the island the rocks are piled up or fashioned into stone walls. This started 900 years or so ago when people first settled the islands which were covered in stones. In order to clear some space to grow grass for sheep or to plant olive trees or grapes, the people cleared away the stones. I have a hard time wrapping my head around that: all manual labor to clear the stones. The big ones were broken up into small ones, again all by hand.
My cab driver on Brac said that a man might work for a year to clear the stones from 45 square meters of land! Think about that, an area 7 meters by 7 meters, taking a year to clear. Over time, more and more stones were cleared so that now the piles and walls are everywhere.
Tough people and tough trees.
OK, back to my walk.
My route was generally downhill to the sea, with the occasional up hill to keep my attention. I passed by a couple of rural villages, now mostly abandoned (Malo Grablje and Zarace) and both historical/cultural sites for Croatia.
I did have to walk on the shoulder of a busy road for 1.5km or so, before my final descent into Dubovica. Since I arrived ahead of my expected time, I found a spot in the shade, read for a time, then took a nap before walking back up the hill to my pick-up location.
Today I had mountains, farms, and sea shore; a good day. Tomorrow I'm off to Korcula Island for my last couple days' of walking.
Highlight video
Hvar Island Coast
Hvar Island Coast Walk (10/16)
I was a bit disappointed at the start of today's walk as it took me first along the (paved) waterfront promenade, then onto the shoulder of a road next to the sea. But in about 3km the road dead-ended and I was on a delightful track that followed the shore.
What did I see?
Scads of wild rosemary, all in bloom. Small bays with flat, water washed limestone rocks so white that it made your eyes hurt. And, of course, crashing waves and more crashing waves. Last night was windy, with the wind coming out of the south and driving the surf up onto the rocky shore. Of course this created some spectacular waves and spumes of water. And the shore had a wild sense to it.
And, since the day was warm and muggy, the wind coming in off the ocean was very pleasant.
At about 7km I left to shore to follow a rocky dirt road through vineyards and olive groves almost back to Hvar Town, up and over a hill.
Just on the edge of Hvar I had a great view of the stone fortress that dominates the hill above Hvar and could see the wall that extends from the fortress down to the town and still surrounds some of the buildings.
To finish off the day I changed into my swim suit and took a dip in the sea, launching from the beach that's just down hill from my hotel.
Highlight video
I was a bit disappointed at the start of today's walk as it took me first along the (paved) waterfront promenade, then onto the shoulder of a road next to the sea. But in about 3km the road dead-ended and I was on a delightful track that followed the shore.
What did I see?
Scads of wild rosemary, all in bloom. Small bays with flat, water washed limestone rocks so white that it made your eyes hurt. And, of course, crashing waves and more crashing waves. Last night was windy, with the wind coming out of the south and driving the surf up onto the rocky shore. Of course this created some spectacular waves and spumes of water. And the shore had a wild sense to it.
And, since the day was warm and muggy, the wind coming in off the ocean was very pleasant.
At about 7km I left to shore to follow a rocky dirt road through vineyards and olive groves almost back to Hvar Town, up and over a hill.
Just on the edge of Hvar I had a great view of the stone fortress that dominates the hill above Hvar and could see the wall that extends from the fortress down to the town and still surrounds some of the buildings.
To finish off the day I changed into my swim suit and took a dip in the sea, launching from the beach that's just down hill from my hotel.
Highlight video
Brac Island
Brac Island (10/15)
Today's adventure started with a catamaran ride from Split to Milna on the island of Brac. Then a cab ride to Bol to my hotel where I arrived at about 9:30 AM to find that my room was ready for me! Yahoo! I dropped off my big pack, got my day pack ready, and headed to to hike to the summit of Vidova Gora. Fun fact: my driver on the ride from Milna said that marble used for the white house came from Brac. At least one internet source asserts the same, so it must be true...
I only got lost once on the way to the trail head; not bad for me. It's always a challenge for me to navigate unfamiliar streets and the directions I had to the trail head were not the most explicit. Anyway, I realized the error of my ways, made a correction, and continued upward.
The summit of Vidova Gora is at about 750m and, you do the math on elevation gain, with a sea level start. It was pretty steady up to the ridge crest, then almost flat for about 1km to the actual summit. Fantastic views!
This is limestone country so the trail surface was either smallish limestone rocks (up to 3cm or so) or cobbles from found in place rocks. The cobbles were really rough, let me tell you, and I tried to step from smooth to smooth on the way down, just to make it easier on my feet.
Pretty much all the trail section was in a forest of small pine trees with some kind of heather-looking plant in bloom along the sides of the trail. And were the bees a-buzzing in the heather. There was a pretty constant hum as I walked along. Much of the trail was on a south-facing slope so the occasional shade was very welcome.
The summit could almost be reached by car from the other direction, so there was quite a number of people lounging about and enjoying the view and the breeze, even some cyclists.
Tonight I walked around the hotel a bit, just to check it out, as it's a bit above my normal hotel pay grade. The guests never need to go outside the confines of the building with all kinds of facilities here, include a double kidney-shaped infinity pool! My, oh, my.
Well, a little dinner for me, then study my route for tomorrow: boat to another island, then 2 days before I move again.
Highlight video
Today's adventure started with a catamaran ride from Split to Milna on the island of Brac. Then a cab ride to Bol to my hotel where I arrived at about 9:30 AM to find that my room was ready for me! Yahoo! I dropped off my big pack, got my day pack ready, and headed to to hike to the summit of Vidova Gora. Fun fact: my driver on the ride from Milna said that marble used for the white house came from Brac. At least one internet source asserts the same, so it must be true...
I only got lost once on the way to the trail head; not bad for me. It's always a challenge for me to navigate unfamiliar streets and the directions I had to the trail head were not the most explicit. Anyway, I realized the error of my ways, made a correction, and continued upward.
The summit of Vidova Gora is at about 750m and, you do the math on elevation gain, with a sea level start. It was pretty steady up to the ridge crest, then almost flat for about 1km to the actual summit. Fantastic views!
This is limestone country so the trail surface was either smallish limestone rocks (up to 3cm or so) or cobbles from found in place rocks. The cobbles were really rough, let me tell you, and I tried to step from smooth to smooth on the way down, just to make it easier on my feet.
Pretty much all the trail section was in a forest of small pine trees with some kind of heather-looking plant in bloom along the sides of the trail. And were the bees a-buzzing in the heather. There was a pretty constant hum as I walked along. Much of the trail was on a south-facing slope so the occasional shade was very welcome.
The summit could almost be reached by car from the other direction, so there was quite a number of people lounging about and enjoying the view and the breeze, even some cyclists.
Tonight I walked around the hotel a bit, just to check it out, as it's a bit above my normal hotel pay grade. The guests never need to go outside the confines of the building with all kinds of facilities here, include a double kidney-shaped infinity pool! My, oh, my.
Well, a little dinner for me, then study my route for tomorrow: boat to another island, then 2 days before I move again.
Highlight video
Last Day in Split
Last Day in Split (10/14)
Today I met with the local representative of my walking tour company (The Natural Adventure Company) and got all the materials for my walking adventure, which begins tomorrow. These materials included a booklet detailing information about each day, maps, vouchers, and passes. A lot of stuff to keep track of!
In addition, I visited the Cathedral of Saint Dominus, contained within the confines of the Diocletian Palace. What a magnificent building! The original structure was built by the emperor Diocletius in the 3rd century AD then expanded and converted to a Catholic cathedral in the 7th century. Wikipedia asserts that it's the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that remains in use.
Normally I don't like to visit churches but the wealth, design, and craftsmanship that this building demonstrates is just astounding.
In the afternoon I walked along the shore to the beach/swim area that I'd spotted yesterday and had a quick dip in the sea, probably my last sea swim while here. It was interesting to see the sidewalk near the west end of the Riva that is emblazoned with brass plaques commemorating Croatian Olympic medalists.
Tomorrow I catch a 7:40 catamaran ride that will take me to the island of Brac and my first walk, this one to the highest point in the southern Dalmatians. If it's a clear day I should be able to see from Italy to the Croatian mountains.
Highlight video
Today I met with the local representative of my walking tour company (The Natural Adventure Company) and got all the materials for my walking adventure, which begins tomorrow. These materials included a booklet detailing information about each day, maps, vouchers, and passes. A lot of stuff to keep track of!
In addition, I visited the Cathedral of Saint Dominus, contained within the confines of the Diocletian Palace. What a magnificent building! The original structure was built by the emperor Diocletius in the 3rd century AD then expanded and converted to a Catholic cathedral in the 7th century. Wikipedia asserts that it's the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that remains in use.
Normally I don't like to visit churches but the wealth, design, and craftsmanship that this building demonstrates is just astounding.
In the afternoon I walked along the shore to the beach/swim area that I'd spotted yesterday and had a quick dip in the sea, probably my last sea swim while here. It was interesting to see the sidewalk near the west end of the Riva that is emblazoned with brass plaques commemorating Croatian Olympic medalists.
Tomorrow I catch a 7:40 catamaran ride that will take me to the island of Brac and my first walk, this one to the highest point in the southern Dalmatians. If it's a clear day I should be able to see from Italy to the Croatian mountains.
Highlight video
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
