Split & Game of Thrones
I got to Split yesterday afternoon and after some stressful time I made contact with the manager for the apartment where I'll be staying the next few days. It's lucky for me that so many people speak English here! The building for my room fronts right on the Riva, a promenade along the waterfront portion of Split Old City. This whole area is filled with shops and restaurants, and, even in October there are many visitors.
The harbor is filled with both cruise and tour boats. Not what I had expected, but still kind of exciting. Tonight there is some kind of rock-n-roll stage just outside my front door with bands performing. I'm glad that my room is to the back of the building so that when I want to sleep I will be protected from some of the loud sound.
Today was my Game of Thrones tour. It was a small group, only about 10 or so people so we could be close to our guide, a very enthusiastic and informed GoT fan! He had a notebook prepared with still shots from GoT that he could display as we visited key locations and see how imagination and computer generated imagery combined to create the fantasy of the show.
First stop was the Fortress Kris which was the location for much of the city of Meereen. It was a good distance out of the city and located atop a precipitous hill overlooking Split, the harbor, and the islands. I enjoyed being taken back to he GoT scenes through his descriptions and pictures. In the museum which displayed arms from various periods of Croatian history I immediately stepped forward when there was a chance to don an 'Unsullied' outfit: greaves, shield, helmet, and spear.
Second stop was the Diocletian Palace, first built about 450AD by the Roman emporer Diocletius. It has since gone through numerous changes and modifications including a conversion of the Temple of Jupiter to a Christian church and control by both Muslims and Venetians. The last significant building occurred in the 1400s. Today some of the buildings have apartments and people live there.
We saw several interior locations for GoT including the dungeon where Danaerys kept her dragons.
This was a very full day for me, shuffling about on hard surfaces and my feet were aching by the end. I even took a 2-hour nap in between delivering and picking up my laundry.
Highlight video
Thursday, October 24, 2019
The Last SwimTrek Day
SwimTrek, The Last Day
Not much swimming today.
Today was probably the best weather day of our trip and we were all leaving for the real world or other adventures. It was windless, the water was calm, the air was warm.
We met at the swim beach, 6:40 AM, to swim toward the imminently rising sun with a goal to see the sun come up over the mountains. I chose to swim only in my Speedo as I didn't want to have to deal with packing up a bunch of wet swim togs. Since it was short, I thought that I would survive.
The water was manageable getting in and felt just fine swimming.
Our group stayed together on the way out and we stopped for group photos partway. Our guide Simon swam underwater to the bottom and took pictures of us linked hand-to-hand in a circle, first with feet pointed to the bottom then with feet pointed outward on the surface, like the petals of a flower. I finally saw an octopus on the way back. Very cool.
After a hot shower, a bit of deep shivering, and breakfast, I packed and headed out for a last Prvic walk, another chance to wander the middle of the island. Today's heat brought out the bees in their hundreds as large groups of them worked several flowered plants that I saw.
Now I'm in Split for several days. Tomorrow is a Game of Thrones tour, then a couple days of exploration before I set out on my walking journey through the Dalmatian Islands to Dubrovnik.
It's a real zoo here! Cruise boats in the harbor, the waterfront is thronged with visitors, and the tiny little streets are lined with shops selling all manner of goods. Not what I expected at a World Heritage site. At least cars aren't allowed here.
Highlight video
Not much swimming today.
Today was probably the best weather day of our trip and we were all leaving for the real world or other adventures. It was windless, the water was calm, the air was warm.
We met at the swim beach, 6:40 AM, to swim toward the imminently rising sun with a goal to see the sun come up over the mountains. I chose to swim only in my Speedo as I didn't want to have to deal with packing up a bunch of wet swim togs. Since it was short, I thought that I would survive.
The water was manageable getting in and felt just fine swimming.
Our group stayed together on the way out and we stopped for group photos partway. Our guide Simon swam underwater to the bottom and took pictures of us linked hand-to-hand in a circle, first with feet pointed to the bottom then with feet pointed outward on the surface, like the petals of a flower. I finally saw an octopus on the way back. Very cool.
After a hot shower, a bit of deep shivering, and breakfast, I packed and headed out for a last Prvic walk, another chance to wander the middle of the island. Today's heat brought out the bees in their hundreds as large groups of them worked several flowered plants that I saw.
Now I'm in Split for several days. Tomorrow is a Game of Thrones tour, then a couple days of exploration before I set out on my walking journey through the Dalmatian Islands to Dubrovnik.
It's a real zoo here! Cruise boats in the harbor, the waterfront is thronged with visitors, and the tiny little streets are lined with shops selling all manner of goods. Not what I expected at a World Heritage site. At least cars aren't allowed here.
Highlight video
Double Cross
Double Cross
Another windy day, but it felt warmer in the morning. I added an extra layer when I dressed because I felt so cold yesterday, but it really wasn't necessary.
Our boat crossing was relatively short and the chop wasn't as bad as yesterday, but it was still choppy. Anna yielded to group pressure and planned a double crossing for us! We were released near one island, swam along the shore, then crossed a channel to another, smaller island, then made a second, longer, crossing to a bigger island.
It was bumpy but Lake Washington has been like this many mornings. The only real difference was getting slapped in the face with salt water rather than fresh.
During the crossing the winds picked up a bit so our guides fetched us out of the water just short of our final goal.
From here we had a relatively short ride to the island of Zlarin for our lunch. I walked around a bit before lunch just to enjoy being warm and to check it out. It's now so late in the season that things are really shut down and it's very peaceful and quiet. I can only imagine what it's like in the summer!
Following lunch a handful of people did a little yoga then folks sat in the shade on the boat or snagged some small patch of shade on the dock, or just lay in the sun. There was definitely a lot of napping going on.
The groggy crew was ushered back on board for a short trip down the coast to release the orange caps. They wanted to swim 3km so they were released 3km away from our ending point. Then the familiar pattern: kick out the yellow caps, boat a distance, kick out the pink caps.
The swim was exquisite with numerous little bays and a bottom that varied from barnacle-covered rocks to white sand. Lots of fish and I kept looking for octopus without success. It was long, though, and it seemed as if our pickup boat kept moving further away.
It was good to climb aboard.
We had wind and waves on our way back to Prvic Luka, but also warm sun. I hung out in the sun at the stern and did my routine shivering until I warmed up, then just enjoyed the rest of the ride back.
Tomorrow is our last day here. Tonight is a group dinner then a sunrise swim tomorrow morning (it will feel like home!). Our group will then return to the real world and I travel to Split for he next phase of my journey.
Highlight video
Another windy day, but it felt warmer in the morning. I added an extra layer when I dressed because I felt so cold yesterday, but it really wasn't necessary.
Our boat crossing was relatively short and the chop wasn't as bad as yesterday, but it was still choppy. Anna yielded to group pressure and planned a double crossing for us! We were released near one island, swam along the shore, then crossed a channel to another, smaller island, then made a second, longer, crossing to a bigger island.
It was bumpy but Lake Washington has been like this many mornings. The only real difference was getting slapped in the face with salt water rather than fresh.
During the crossing the winds picked up a bit so our guides fetched us out of the water just short of our final goal.
From here we had a relatively short ride to the island of Zlarin for our lunch. I walked around a bit before lunch just to enjoy being warm and to check it out. It's now so late in the season that things are really shut down and it's very peaceful and quiet. I can only imagine what it's like in the summer!
Following lunch a handful of people did a little yoga then folks sat in the shade on the boat or snagged some small patch of shade on the dock, or just lay in the sun. There was definitely a lot of napping going on.
The groggy crew was ushered back on board for a short trip down the coast to release the orange caps. They wanted to swim 3km so they were released 3km away from our ending point. Then the familiar pattern: kick out the yellow caps, boat a distance, kick out the pink caps.
The swim was exquisite with numerous little bays and a bottom that varied from barnacle-covered rocks to white sand. Lots of fish and I kept looking for octopus without success. It was long, though, and it seemed as if our pickup boat kept moving further away.
It was good to climb aboard.
We had wind and waves on our way back to Prvic Luka, but also warm sun. I hung out in the sun at the stern and did my routine shivering until I warmed up, then just enjoyed the rest of the ride back.
Tomorrow is our last day here. Tonight is a group dinner then a sunrise swim tomorrow morning (it will feel like home!). Our group will then return to the real world and I travel to Split for he next phase of my journey.
Highlight video
A Coast and a Channel
A coast and a channel
Another cold morning and the wind has picked up.
Our guides and boat captain decided that we were to cruise for an hour or so to our starting location. If the wind-driven waves look OK when we arrive, we'll have another crossing. Otherwise, it will be a shore swim.
Well, the wind gods were not in a crossing mood so we headed over to another island for a shore swim. Good choice as there was some pretty good chop.
As soon as we got into to the lee side of the island the waves dissipated and we were presented with very smooth water. Same, familiar drill: send off the orange caps, move back a few 100 meters and send off the yellow caps, then another few hundred meters to send off the pink caps.
This shore was quite beautiful, not quite up to yesterday's shore, but still very nice. I even saw a couple of jellyfish! One pulsating near the surface, the other near the bottom. On this swim I never felt warm. A deep cold feeling seemed to settle into my arms. Then, of course, some shivering after getting back on the boat.
Off to lunch at a holiday island, one with a sponge shop. Some folks dropped into the sponge shop; I opted to walk around the island. A good, solid lunch was available when I returned. There was a long line of trekkers sitting on the dock, backs to a short wall, somewhat sheltered from the annoying and cold wind. Seemed like everyone was tired (I know I was) because the talking was absent or subdued.
After a time we were all called, groaning, back aboard.
Our last swim of the day was a channel swim: down one side, make a short crossing, then swim back to near our starting point. The water was much more turbid than we've encountered with visibility of only a meter or so. By the time I got back to the boat, I was ready to get out. Except for today, I'd not worn my vest for the afternoon swim, but today I felt like I needed it.
Our final boat ride back to Prvic Luka was a real rock and roller with waves between 1 and 2 meters out in the channel!
Tonight, get some dinner (early, I hope) then off to dreamland in my warm bed.
Highlight video
Another cold morning and the wind has picked up.
Our guides and boat captain decided that we were to cruise for an hour or so to our starting location. If the wind-driven waves look OK when we arrive, we'll have another crossing. Otherwise, it will be a shore swim.
Well, the wind gods were not in a crossing mood so we headed over to another island for a shore swim. Good choice as there was some pretty good chop.
As soon as we got into to the lee side of the island the waves dissipated and we were presented with very smooth water. Same, familiar drill: send off the orange caps, move back a few 100 meters and send off the yellow caps, then another few hundred meters to send off the pink caps.
This shore was quite beautiful, not quite up to yesterday's shore, but still very nice. I even saw a couple of jellyfish! One pulsating near the surface, the other near the bottom. On this swim I never felt warm. A deep cold feeling seemed to settle into my arms. Then, of course, some shivering after getting back on the boat.
Off to lunch at a holiday island, one with a sponge shop. Some folks dropped into the sponge shop; I opted to walk around the island. A good, solid lunch was available when I returned. There was a long line of trekkers sitting on the dock, backs to a short wall, somewhat sheltered from the annoying and cold wind. Seemed like everyone was tired (I know I was) because the talking was absent or subdued.
After a time we were all called, groaning, back aboard.
Our last swim of the day was a channel swim: down one side, make a short crossing, then swim back to near our starting point. The water was much more turbid than we've encountered with visibility of only a meter or so. By the time I got back to the boat, I was ready to get out. Except for today, I'd not worn my vest for the afternoon swim, but today I felt like I needed it.
Our final boat ride back to Prvic Luka was a real rock and roller with waves between 1 and 2 meters out in the channel!
Tonight, get some dinner (early, I hope) then off to dreamland in my warm bed.
Highlight video
First Crossing
First crossing
Another day with 2 swims. And another cold morning.
I was awakened about midnight by some terrible screaming outside. It sounded like someone in great distress. Finally, I went to the window and shined my flashlight toward to area where the noise seemed to be coming and was AMAZED at the amount of light it put out! It's just a teeny little thing and everything lit up like I had a spotlight. I shouted out and the voices immediately quieted down and stopped shortly. Then the church bells rang midnight to send me off to dreamland.
The harbor was calm in the early morning which boded well for swimming.
On the boat trip out to our first start point, our guides pointed out where we'd be, with maybe a crossing today.
The morning swim was absolutely beautiful with incredible stone formations under the water, all overgrown with marine plants and many groups of fish, but all small. For the first time I just fell into a rhythm and swam joyfully; it was great. Then to top it off, right at the end of the swim, there was a group of larger fish.
By then the sun was out and warm and I experienced only minimal shivering on our trip to lunch.
Our lunch stop was a small island, one with a few houses on it. With time on our hands we walked over the top to the other side IN THE WARM SUN. I had a great conversation with one of my fellow Trekkers, Kat, where we shared our mutual excitement and love of triathlon and racing. A couple of kindred spirits.
After lunch we chatted, some people did yoga, and others just napped. Very relaxing.
Then we got the good news: our FIRST crossing. Just a couple hundred meters out there was a small island which we'd swim past the across a channel to a second island. The boat went out and dropped off the orange hat group, then returned to the harbor to drop off the yellow hat group, then further back still for the pink hats.
Away we went with instructions to stay together in our groups.
It was really fun to swim, swim, swim across and to see the opposite shore gradually become more and more distinct as we neared.
Upon reaching the other shore I felt tired but eager to continue and boarded the boat somewhat reluctantly.
Once aboard there was the changing ritual then a long chug back to Prvic Luka with lots of afternoon left.
After my hot shower and gear maintenance, I headed to the market just up from our hotel only to find the door locked. Faced with that, I reluctantly turned back and ended up striking up a conversation with a local who was sitting out on his stoop drinking beer. I ended up talking with him for some time (and actually having a sip of whatever potent liqueur he was drinking along with the beer!).
Our conversation covered many topics and his English made it all possible. As I was about to leave to return to my room, he slipped inside his apartment and came out with 2 pieces of currency from the Yugoslavia days. I don't know what the currency was denominated in but the 50,000 had a picture of Tito and the 100 had a picture of a man riding a horse. And he gave the the 100! Now I have a super souvenir of my trip.
It turns out that the store was probably closed all day because today is Croatian Independence Day.
Another good day: a great coastal swim, our first crossing, and meeting Robert as I returned from my attempt to visit the market.
Highlight video
Another day with 2 swims. And another cold morning.
I was awakened about midnight by some terrible screaming outside. It sounded like someone in great distress. Finally, I went to the window and shined my flashlight toward to area where the noise seemed to be coming and was AMAZED at the amount of light it put out! It's just a teeny little thing and everything lit up like I had a spotlight. I shouted out and the voices immediately quieted down and stopped shortly. Then the church bells rang midnight to send me off to dreamland.
The harbor was calm in the early morning which boded well for swimming.
On the boat trip out to our first start point, our guides pointed out where we'd be, with maybe a crossing today.
The morning swim was absolutely beautiful with incredible stone formations under the water, all overgrown with marine plants and many groups of fish, but all small. For the first time I just fell into a rhythm and swam joyfully; it was great. Then to top it off, right at the end of the swim, there was a group of larger fish.
By then the sun was out and warm and I experienced only minimal shivering on our trip to lunch.
Our lunch stop was a small island, one with a few houses on it. With time on our hands we walked over the top to the other side IN THE WARM SUN. I had a great conversation with one of my fellow Trekkers, Kat, where we shared our mutual excitement and love of triathlon and racing. A couple of kindred spirits.
After lunch we chatted, some people did yoga, and others just napped. Very relaxing.
Then we got the good news: our FIRST crossing. Just a couple hundred meters out there was a small island which we'd swim past the across a channel to a second island. The boat went out and dropped off the orange hat group, then returned to the harbor to drop off the yellow hat group, then further back still for the pink hats.
Away we went with instructions to stay together in our groups.
It was really fun to swim, swim, swim across and to see the opposite shore gradually become more and more distinct as we neared.
Upon reaching the other shore I felt tired but eager to continue and boarded the boat somewhat reluctantly.
Once aboard there was the changing ritual then a long chug back to Prvic Luka with lots of afternoon left.
After my hot shower and gear maintenance, I headed to the market just up from our hotel only to find the door locked. Faced with that, I reluctantly turned back and ended up striking up a conversation with a local who was sitting out on his stoop drinking beer. I ended up talking with him for some time (and actually having a sip of whatever potent liqueur he was drinking along with the beer!).
Our conversation covered many topics and his English made it all possible. As I was about to leave to return to my room, he slipped inside his apartment and came out with 2 pieces of currency from the Yugoslavia days. I don't know what the currency was denominated in but the 50,000 had a picture of Tito and the 100 had a picture of a man riding a horse. And he gave the the 100! Now I have a super souvenir of my trip.
It turns out that the store was probably closed all day because today is Croatian Independence Day.
Another good day: a great coastal swim, our first crossing, and meeting Robert as I returned from my attempt to visit the market.
Highlight video
A Coast and a Beach
A coast and a beach
Another windy day which meant searching for swim locations on the lee side of islands.
This was an unusual combination of swims today.
The first was like we'd had before: paralleling the coast of an island. I'm starting to get the hang of this as we divide into our pace groups and get dropped off. Nothing in terms of view to report, just the standard beauty of the island coast and the fantastical underwater viewing: clear, blue water as far down as I can see and calm seas on the lee side.
Our lunch stop was at an island with a small village and a picturesque church atop the hill dominating everything. A group of us hiked up to it to enjoy the view and to marvel at all the crypts that surround the church. It was remarkable to me that, according to the grave markers, most of those interred there had died since about the mid-1940s. Somehow, I expected a much longer history.
Then lunch, highlighted by cold spaghetti, which got a lot of comments, none favorable.
After lunch, a bumpy channel crossing to swim parallel to a major beach/tourist area. It was a big change from the islands, for sure. We were instructed to stay together as this was a busy area and, sure enough, a jet ski came zooming out to emphasize the point.
Then back to Prvic Luka to drop off the tired crew. For some reason I was just completely tired out. Maybe it was the unaccustomed distance I was swimming, maybe it was how cold I got after each swim, or maybe a combination of both. In any case, all I wanted to do was sleep. I resisted for a time but finally gave in and dropped into bed for a good 8 hours of rest.
That was good because I felt very perky in the morning, ready to go at it again.
Another windy day which meant searching for swim locations on the lee side of islands.
This was an unusual combination of swims today.
The first was like we'd had before: paralleling the coast of an island. I'm starting to get the hang of this as we divide into our pace groups and get dropped off. Nothing in terms of view to report, just the standard beauty of the island coast and the fantastical underwater viewing: clear, blue water as far down as I can see and calm seas on the lee side.
Our lunch stop was at an island with a small village and a picturesque church atop the hill dominating everything. A group of us hiked up to it to enjoy the view and to marvel at all the crypts that surround the church. It was remarkable to me that, according to the grave markers, most of those interred there had died since about the mid-1940s. Somehow, I expected a much longer history.
Then lunch, highlighted by cold spaghetti, which got a lot of comments, none favorable.
After lunch, a bumpy channel crossing to swim parallel to a major beach/tourist area. It was a big change from the islands, for sure. We were instructed to stay together as this was a busy area and, sure enough, a jet ski came zooming out to emphasize the point.
Then back to Prvic Luka to drop off the tired crew. For some reason I was just completely tired out. Maybe it was the unaccustomed distance I was swimming, maybe it was how cold I got after each swim, or maybe a combination of both. In any case, all I wanted to do was sleep. I resisted for a time but finally gave in and dropped into bed for a good 8 hours of rest.
That was good because I felt very perky in the morning, ready to go at it again.
Swimming Begins
A very busy day.
We started out in the morning with a short evaluation swim, just a few hundred meters, so that our guides could do a first-over look at each person's swimming. All of us had been pre-divided into pace groups (slow, medium, fast) based on information that we'd each provided when we signed up for the trip. I was assigned to the slow group (orange caps) and was a bit disappointed, but I came into this saying "It's not a race, it's an adventure.".
After a short break to get our stuff together, we boarded the boat which would take us to the start point for our first swim. The swim logistics were pretty simple: drop off the slow group (orange group), motor a distance farther away from the finish point to drop off the middle speed group (yellow caps), then further still for the fast group (pink caps). The idea was that slow groups would be caught by faster groups and everyone would finish at about the same time.
During the swim it was pretty clear that I was mis-assigned as I would get ahead of most of the swimmers then circle back to re-join the pack. This swim was a lovely coastal swim, paralleling the shore of one of the many Dalmatian islands until our skipper {Cap'n Jack, not his name) thought we should get back on board. Pink caps caught yellow caps who caught orange caps then it was time to gt on the boat.
As soon as I came aboard, Anna (one of our guides) informed me that I was moving up. Later I got the choice of yellow or pink. No pink for me; too much work!
I soon discovered that this was the hardest part as it's been windy so I quickly chilled down and started to shiver. There were hot drinks on board so I could sort of re-warm from the inside out. It's amazing what such close quarters do to modesty as people stripped down and changed out of their wet swim togs. I'll leave those images to your imagination! Suffice it so say that with 2/3 of the group women, there were lots of flashes of colorful underwear (and I thought that only happened on Survivor).
Swimming video
Highlight video
We started out in the morning with a short evaluation swim, just a few hundred meters, so that our guides could do a first-over look at each person's swimming. All of us had been pre-divided into pace groups (slow, medium, fast) based on information that we'd each provided when we signed up for the trip. I was assigned to the slow group (orange caps) and was a bit disappointed, but I came into this saying "It's not a race, it's an adventure.".
After a short break to get our stuff together, we boarded the boat which would take us to the start point for our first swim. The swim logistics were pretty simple: drop off the slow group (orange group), motor a distance farther away from the finish point to drop off the middle speed group (yellow caps), then further still for the fast group (pink caps). The idea was that slow groups would be caught by faster groups and everyone would finish at about the same time.
During the swim it was pretty clear that I was mis-assigned as I would get ahead of most of the swimmers then circle back to re-join the pack. This swim was a lovely coastal swim, paralleling the shore of one of the many Dalmatian islands until our skipper {Cap'n Jack, not his name) thought we should get back on board. Pink caps caught yellow caps who caught orange caps then it was time to gt on the boat.
As soon as I came aboard, Anna (one of our guides) informed me that I was moving up. Later I got the choice of yellow or pink. No pink for me; too much work!
I soon discovered that this was the hardest part as it's been windy so I quickly chilled down and started to shiver. There were hot drinks on board so I could sort of re-warm from the inside out. It's amazing what such close quarters do to modesty as people stripped down and changed out of their wet swim togs. I'll leave those images to your imagination! Suffice it so say that with 2/3 of the group women, there were lots of flashes of colorful underwear (and I thought that only happened on Survivor).
Swimming video
Highlight video
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